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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.